Microdermabrasion for Acne: How It Works, Why It Helps, and Who Can Benefit Most

Updated on February 4, 2025, by Don Mehrabi

Microdermabrasion is a gentle cosmetic procedure for rejuvenating the skin and eliminating various imperfections. You may have a friend who has recently seen success with this procedure after years of frustration with topical treatments. Now, you’re wondering if it could work on acne, too.

Microdermabrasion for Acne and Dark Spots

Skincare professionals may recommend microdermabrasion for acne in patients who require or prefer a less intense treatment than CO2 laser or dermabrasion. If you’re still unsure if this procedure is suitable for you, then stick around. This article discusses how the therapy works and what you can do to optimize its benefits.

What Is Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion is an in-office skin resurfacing procedure that entails the use of a handheld device that exfoliates the skin, with the sloughed cells cleared away by a built-in vacuum mechanism. It’s non-ablative, meaning it doesn’t produce open wounds, unlike ablative therapies. Microdermabrasion devices are classified based on the exfoliants they use.

Crystal-based devices require the application of particulate materials composed of hard substances like aluminum oxide and sodium chloride on the skin’s surface. Crystal-free equipment relies on abrasive minerals like diamond and corundum embedded at their tips.

The media sometimes calls this procedure “diamond peel facial,” “crystal microdermabrasion,” “lunchtime peel,” or “Parisian peel.” “Diamond peel facial” and “crystal microdermabrasion” are related to the devices used in these skin treatments. “Lunchtime peel” refers to the sessions being quick and, therefore, convenient for busy people.

“Parisian peel” conveys a sense of indulgence and luxury. Indeed, microdermabrasion is the kind of TLC your skin needs to complement your regular skincare routine or maintain the effects of more powerful skin rejuvenation procedures.

How Does Microdermabrasion Work on Acne?

Resurfacing procedures remove a portion of the skin’s top layers, triggering tissue changes that ultimately renew the skin’s surface. Compared to ablative skin resurfacing methods, such as dermabrasion and deep chemical peel treatment, microdermabrasion strips off only the most superficial skin layer, the stratum corneum—the primary skin barrier.

The stratum corneum is made of tightly linked dead skin cells embedded in natural moisturizers like ceramides. This layer lacks blood vessels and nerves, so its removal should not cause bleeding or sharp pain.

Microdermabrasion for Mild Acne. The microdermabrasion device can unclog blocked pores by exfoliating the outer skin layers

Immediately after the session, lighter-colored younger cells are revealed, and uneven surfaces become smoother. So, you may see some improvement in your skin tone and texture right away. However, most enhancements after the treatment occur during the renewal process.

The temporary disturbance the procedure creates on the skin surface prompts gradual changes that include the following:

  • Rearrangement of pigment-producing cells (melanosomes) in the deeper skin layers
  • Increased collagen production
  • Enhanced blood circulation
  • Release of substances that help the skin heal wounds and break down damaged tissue

Conditions that may be treated with microdermabrasion include the following:

  • Mild skin texture issues like fine wrinkles and shallow scars
  • Subtle stretch marks
  • Skin pigment issues like dark spots, melasma, and uneven skin tone
  • Sun damage
  • Oily or dry skin
  • Large pores

The procedure also works on mild cases of acne and acne scarring. To understand how microdermabrasion solves these skin problems, we need to go back to how acne arises.

Pimple formation starts with pore clogging, abnormal skin oil (sebum) secretion, bacterial infection, and inflammation. Mild acne manifests as blackheads and whiteheads, which are superficial and often uninflamed. In contrast, moderate-to-severe acne lesions are deeper and have varying levels of inflammation.

Studies show that microdermabrasion produces the following effects on acne-prone skin:

  • Removal of excess dead skin cells in the stratum corneum reduces pore clogging. 
  • Sebum and pH control improves, minimizing proneness to skin irritation.
  • Skin moisture also increases with exfoliation. However, this effect lasts less than a day, necessitating regular replenishment with moisturizers.
  • The skin repair process is activated, enhancing collagen and elastin production, though the effect is milder compared to ablative skin resurfacing procedures. 

Microdermabrasion has been proven to reduce acne breakouts in pimple-prone individuals. Acne scars also improve, as the treatment can modify the collagen-strengthening process and decrease blotching over affected areas.

Blackheads Before and After Microdermabrasion

What Are the Key Benefits of Microdermabrasion Treatment?

Patients often report softer, smoother, and more radiant skin immediately after a microdermabrasion session. Pores shrink, and greasiness decreases.

With repeated treatment and continued skin renewal, individuals with melasma can observe lightening of dark spots and evening of skin tone. Scars, stretch marks, and aging signs gradually diminish due to enhanced collagen production and remodeling. Skin analysis reveals improvements in elasticity and volume over time.

An added benefit of microdermabrasion is its ability to enhance drug absorption through the skin, which is a consequence of stripping off the skin’s protective barrier. This effect helps in the topical delivery of cosmeceuticals that poorly penetrate the skin, such as vitamin C, as well as skin disease medications like 5-fluorouracil.

How Do You Prepare for Microdermabrasion?

As in any procedure in cosmetic dermatology, the best results from microdermabrasion are obtained by entrusting it to a board-certified dermatologist. Preparing for this therapy begins with your dermatologist’s assessment of your suitability.

During your initial consultation, your physician will inquire about the skin condition you want addressed, particularly how it started, what possibly triggered it, and how it’s evolving. They may also ask about your current medications, past and present skin treatment outcomes, allergies, regular activities, and habits, as well as similar skin issues in the family. Such information helps determine the factors that may impact the effectiveness of your therapy.

After taking your history, the dermatologist will examine the problem area. A complete body skin check may be necessary if you’re seeing your skin doctor for the first time or dealing with a widespread skin condition. You can feel at ease knowing the dermatologist will conduct the examination professionally, with your privacy fully safeguarded.

Once your clinical assessment is complete, your dermatologist will discuss treatment options. They may recommend microdermabrasion if it suits your needs. Otherwise, they will advise alternatives. If they give you an appointment for microdermabrasion, they will also provide you with preparation instructions.

Examination of a Patient with an Acne Breakout

How Do You Prepare for Your Microdermabrasion Session?

Proper preparation is vital to minimize the risk of complications after the procedure. Your skin specialist may recommend the following steps:

  • Start using sun protection regularly. Avoid prolonged UV or sun exposure, which can increase the risk of blotching after the procedure due to a reaction known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
  • Discontinue skin-sensitizing treatments like retinol peels that increase the likelihood of developing side effects from microdermabrasion.
  • Avoid medications and supplements that can disrupt the skin’s recovery, including blood thinners, ibuprofen and similar pain relievers, and steroids.
  • Refrain from smoking tobacco and drinking alcohol, as both can interfere with the skin’s renewal processes.
  • Take antiviral medication to prevent a cold sore outbreak, which the procedure may trigger.
  • Apply tretinoin or hydroquinone to the target area starting a few weeks before the procedure to promote recovery and reduce the likelihood of PIH.

Cleanse your face thoroughly and leave it cosmetic-free on the day of your appointment.

What Can You Expect During Your Microdermabrasion Procedure?

After checking in for your appointment and filling out some forms, a medical assistant will take you to the treatment room. They will ask you to change into a clinic gown and make yourself comfortable on the procedure table.

At the start of your session, your dermatologist will cleanse your skin. If you’re having crystal-based facial microdermabrasion, they may cover your eyes with gauze to protect them from stray crystals. Numbing medication is usually unnecessary, though some devices spray a cooling solution on the skin to further reduce discomfort.

Performing Crystal-Free Microdermabrasion for Acne

The provider will run the device about 3 times in the target area. Once finished, they will gently wipe off the remaining crystals, exfoliated skin, and debris that the device has not removed. They will then apply moisturizer to the treated site and give you aftercare instructions before you leave. The procedure usually takes 30-60 minutes, so you can seamlessly fit it into your hectic schedule.

So You’ve Had Microdermabrasion. What’s Next?

Aftercare is crucial to getting the best outcomes. Your skincare specialist may advise you to do the following after your microdermabrasion therapy:

  • Cleanse the treated skin twice daily. Apply a moisturizer after cleansing and as necessary.
  • Protect the healing skin from trauma, pressure, and irritants. Skin in the recovery phase is highly sensitive and may scar or develop pigmentation issues without proper protection.
  • Put off wearing makeup for the first 24-48 hours or while the skin exhibits signs of inflammation, such as pain, redness, and swelling.
  • Use sun protection regularly.
  • Continue to avoid drinking and smoking until the skin is completely healed or, if prescribed, you’ve completed multiple weekly sessions.
  • Resume your acne treatment if instructed by your dermatologist to do so.

Most patients undergo microdermabrasion without experiencing serious side effects. Individuals with highly sensitive skin may report slight tenderness, swelling, redness, or bruising after the procedure. Acetaminophen, ice packs, and sleeping with the head elevated can help alleviate these symptoms. If you’re prone to bruising, your provider may recommend starting arnica or bromelain supplementation days before the procedure and continuing another few days after.

Eye irritation may occur if the eyes come into contact with microdermabrasion crystals. Cold sores may reactivate without premedication. Your skin can become more vulnerable to sun damage since the procedure removes the skin barrier. You can prevent or minimize these risks by having a board-certified dermatologist perform the procedure and give you proper preparation and aftercare advice.

Ensuring Excellent Treatment Outcomes with Good Aftercare

The downtime after microdermabrasion is minimal to none. Most patients require 4-6 weekly sessions to achieve their desired results. The time between treatments may be adjusted to every 3-4 weeks, depending on the kind of skin concern being addressed and its severity.

How Long Does It Take to See Results from Microdermabrasion?

As mentioned, some effects of this therapy may be observed immediately, including better sebum and pH control and increased moisture level. A slight improvement in blackhead and whitehead severity, skin color, and wrinkles may also be seen right away, but these changes may not become significant until after 2-3 sessions.

Inflammation symptoms generally disappear within 2 days. The skin barrier is also expected to recover fully after this period, so your skin should be ready for another treatment after a week.

How Long Do Microdermabrasion Results Last?

The exact duration of the cosmetic effects of microdermabrasion has not been studied extensively. Preliminary research shows that skin barrier functions, such as sebum, moisture, and pH control, go back to baseline about 4 weeks after the last microdermabrasion procedure. The number of passes of the microdermabrasion device and the intervals between sessions appear to influence the length of this period.

However, bigger clinical trials are required to support these findings. Additionally, another study showed that diamond microdermabrasion can stimulate wound repair processes in deeper skin layers if performed aggressively enough. These processes include collagen production, which can improve wrinkles and acne scars. Research involving other non-ablative procedures shows that collagen production can continue for 3 months or so after activation.

Again, further studies are needed to determine exactly how long microdermabrasion’s effects last. Nevertheless, multiple sessions can have a cumulative and longer-lasting impact, and factors like how often the treatments are done and the starting condition of the skin are essential to getting satisfactory outcomes.

How Does Microdermabrasion Compare with Other Acne Procedures?

In cosmetic dermatology, the degree of inflammation a procedure creates generally determines its effectiveness and safety. Ablative therapies, such as erbium laser treatment, dermabrasion, and microneedling, involve deeper skin layers and cause much more inflammation than microdermabrasion.

Microneedling for Treating Acne and Facial Scars

These procedures lead to a more dramatic cosmetic transformation than microdermabrasion but, if performed poorly, are also more likely to cause complications, including significant pain or bleeding, infection, and scar formation. Consequently, ablative treatments are reserved for more severe skin concerns, including deep acne scars, keloids, coarse wrinkles, and benign tumors like actinic keratosis.

Regardless, microdermabrasion remains an important dermatologic procedure. Besides enhancing the absorption of topical medications, dermatologists can use microdermabrasion to boost the effects of other skin resurfacing treatments.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who Is Not a Good Candidate for Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion may be used on any skin type, i.e., whether light or colored complexion, without problems. However, certain conditions can make this skin treatment risky for some people, including the following:

  • Active skin infection
  • Allergy to microdermabrasion crystals
  • Tendency to form bad scars
  • Inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea
  • Abnormal blood vessels that can cause bleeding or bruising during the procedure

A board-certified dermatologist will examine you for these risk factors to ensure that you’re a good candidate for this procedure.

Can You Use Makeup After Your Microdermabrasion Session?

Cosmetics often contain irritants and serve as a breeding ground for germs. Removing the skin’s primary protector against these invisible enemies can make it vulnerable to irritation and infection. As mentioned, the skin barrier completely regenerates within 2 days, and inflammation can last as long. So, it’s best to wait for 24-48 hours or until the signs of inflammation are completely gone before applying cosmetics to the treated area.

Is Microdermabrasion Recommendable for Severe Acne?

The acne treatment guidelines published by the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) in 2024 do not include microdermabrasion among the recommended therapies for moderate-to-severe acne. Pus collection, which signifies an infection or severe inflammation, can worsen when treated inappropriately with this procedure and is a contraindication.

Does Insurance Cover Microdermabrasion?

No, insurance does not cover microdermabrasion. According to the AAD, procedures intended to minimize aging signs or improve appearance are not eligible for insurance coverage.

Microdermabrasion for Acne: A Gentle Option for Clearing Blocked Pores

Microdermabrasion is a quick, gentle, in-office skin treatment commonly used for rejuvenating aging skin. This procedure can also clear blocked pores. Microdermabrasion works on mild acne but is ineffective, even potentially harmful, when used on active acne.

Healthier Skin From Good Dermatologic Care

If you’re dealing with blackheads and whiteheads, which are signs of mild acne, microdermabrasion may be worth exploring. But as always, keep in mind that a huge part of the success of any cosmetic treatment, besides good preparation and aftercare, is your provider’s skill. So, for best results, trust only a board-certified dermatologist for your microdermabrasion.

Treat Your Skin with Microdermabrasion from LA’s Top Dermatologists

Brown pigment spots, whiteheads, blackheads, and fine lines are screaming signs that your skin needs some pampering. A microdermabrasion facial treatment can get rid of these problems. If you’re looking for a cosmetic expert to get it done, you’ve come to the right place!

At BHSkin Dermatology, our skincare specialists are some of the best in California. Their expertise in various cosmetic procedures leaves patients nothing short of satisfied. Visit us at our Glendale or Encino clinic, or use our virtual portal for your first consultation.

Get new skin for a fresh, radiant look! Book your appointment today!

References:

 

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Don-Mehrabi

Author: Don Mehrabi

Don Mehrabi, MD, FAAD, is LA’s leading board-certified dermatologist who treats patients, builds the BHSkin clinics, and raises three kids. This blog builds on medical studies combined with Dr. Mehrabi's first-hand experiences from practicing in Encino-Tarzana, Glendale, and online

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